In Taos...
Fine and generous friends are one of life's blessings, and you can't get much more generous than having friends that lend you their gorgeous home in Taos. That is what Donnie and Karen Michael did for Julie and me this past week, and what a relief it was leaving the hot dusty flatlands of W. Texas for the cool, pinon scented mountains of Northern New Mexico.

We drove up the more scenic route through middle New Mexico, on a great road that I love, mostly four lanes of vacant space with mountain views to the West. Instead of going my regular route to Santa Fe, we tried the scenic route up the Mora Valley thru the mountains arriving at Ranchos de Taos where the Michaels fabulous home is. The house sits up on the side of a hill towards the mountains and is just what you would expect of a Taos residence.

We had much planned to do, but an unexpected surprise for me was the Angel Fire Air Show being held across the mountain from Taos. Several CAF aircraft were performing and I got to talk with a pilot I had met before in Midland. Julie and I had a great time, and we each got to have our "little moment" with Julie talking to the young hunks from the Air Force Academy parachute team, and I got my photograph made with Miss New Mexico! Julie also got to "fly" left seat in one of the last remaining Huey Helicopters in service.

While in Taos we had seen signs for a Vietnam Memorial, and we had assumed it was a local memorial. By very good chance the Memorial was right across the highway from the Air Show and was in fact a National Memorial. The site on the side of the mountain is spectacular and the statues and displays are a stirring reminder of the war and it's costs. I'm so glad we had the opportunity to spend time there.

Art and it's history in Taos are something that we are both interested in, so we took almost a whole day visiting the museums, galleries and other art related sites throughout the town. The thriving art culture in Taos started in 1898 when artist Ernest Blumenschein's wagon broke down on the mountain above Taos, and while getting it fixed he fell in love with the light, people and ambience of the place. He soon founded the Taos Society of Artists and it became an important movement in the early 20th century. Mabel Dodge Lujan was a wealthy patron of these artists and other luminaries such as D. H. Lawrence and had them gather often at her house. We visited the Blumenshein house, which is much as he left it in the center of the early art district on Ledoux Street. Nearby is the impressive Harwood Museum which houses many of the Taos Society Artists works including Winter Funeral. Also at the museum was a retrospective of prints by Jasper Johns and a great collection of early colonial New Mexican religous art objects.

Another unexpected highlight for us was the Martinez Hacienda, built around 1804. This restored hacienda was the headquarters for a colonial New Mexican sheep rancher and trader, and was on the Northern boundary of the Spanish empire in America. Built near a lovely stream flowing from the mountains, the hacienda was built to withstand attacks by Comanche Indians, and was completely self sufficient. This National Landmark site has been restored to nearly it's original condition with examples of the the fabrics that they produced for trade with Mexico and every day items that were used in their daily lives. It was also a photographers dream with both Julie and Myself shooting some things that we really liked.

Another side trip was to the historic St. Francis of Assisi cathedral outside of Ranchos de Taos. This 300 year old, picturesque church was the same painted by Georgia O'Keefe in many of her more famous works. Although I have to say I was disappointed that through lack of zoning laws, small commercial buildings [can you say Pizza Shop!] have grown up right on top of the church, surrounding it with clutter. It's just not the same as the last time Georgia, or I, saw it.

We also had a great time just being alone together in the quiet of the house and it's beautiful grounds. But...all good things must end. We decided to come back on the route via Santa Fe through the canyon of the Rio Grande River which Julie had never seen. It is a shock for a Texan seeing this gorgeous, fast flowing, clear mountain river in New Mexico. We are used to a tepid muddy stream that now does not even have enough oomph left to reach the sea.

If you have never been to Northern New Mexico, it is a rare treat. Just don't go when we are there, it's getting too crowded!

The Harwood Museum
The Blumenschein Home
Hacienda de los Martinez
Kit Carson Home
National Vietnam Memorial